A trip to Koodala Sangama, Aalamatti, Badami, Pattadakallu and Mahakoota

I agreed to attend my engineering friend Mallesh's engagement on just one day prior to the occasion, not only because of my friendship with him, but also due to the chance of visiting nearby places which are popular places in Karnataka.

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Mallesh's engagement was in Ilkal, in Bagalkot District of North Karnataka. It was on November 26th Friday 2010. Nearby to it were the famous places like Hampi, Badami, Pattadakallu, Aihole etc. Going along with 6 of my other engineering friends, I didn't know how would we accomplish visiting many such places. But I had in my mind of making the most of the following Saturday & Sunday of 27th and 28th.

Early morning hours of Friday while travelling on Bus towards Ilkal.

The Hospet Dam seen while traveling in the Bus in the morning hours.

A road side scene, seen from the bus.

The Sun Rising

Traveling along the green fields..

Sun shining over, gives a golden touch ..

So we headed for Ilkal from Bengalooru the previous night of Thursday and halted at a hotel in Ilkal at the morning hours of Friday. Everybody got ready and visited the venue. It was a nice program with special sumptuous breakfast and lunch. But it was by evening that all functions were over and we had no option to travel to any nearby place then. So we decided to stay back in Ilkal and go for "Saree" shopping in Ilkal. (Ilkal Saree is a special type of Hand Woven Silk or Cotton Saree. Ilkal is famous for this !) Many of us contacted our homes to confirm the colors our Mothers wanted..! 3 of us, out of 6 purchased multiple sarees..!

The next day we started early and reached the nearby place Koodala Sangama which is 35 Kms from Ilkal. This is the famous place where the famous Kannada Poet and Religious Seer, founder of the Lingayat faith Sri. Basavanna's holy Samadhi (called Aikya Mantapa) is situated. This place is situated on the banks where 3 Rivers ( River Krishna, River Malaprabha, River Ghataprabha ) merge and is therefore called as Koodala Sangama. It is said that the River Malaprabha merged with River Krishna when the Aalamatti Dam was constructed. The area surrounding Sangamanatha, where the Aikya Mantapa is situated would then be submerged under water. To avoid this, a huge concrete enclosure was constructed to preserve the holy Aikya Mantapa and the Basava Linga which is said to be Swayambhu Linga (Self Born).

River bank at Koodala Sangama.

People take bath at the River bank before visiting the Sangamanatha Temple.

Children at play on the river bank of Koodala Sangama

Children at play on the river bank of Koodala Sangama

Artistic stone carvings at Sangamanatha Temple which is built in the Chalukyan style.

The Aikya Mantapa below the water and the huge concrete enclosure surrounding it and the bridge connecting it to the main land at Koodala Sangama.

The Sangamanatha Temple, built in Chalukyan style architecture at Koodala Sangama.

The Linga above the Aikya Mantapa

The Aikya Mantapa seen from above.

The Basavalinga (which is said to be Swayambhu Linga) along with Sri Basavanna's Samadhi at the Aikya Mantapa.

This is what you see above, from the Aikya Mantapa.

The way (bridge) leading to Aikya Mantapa along with the Sangamanatha Temple in the background. 

Then we headed towards the Aalamatti Dam built across the River Krishna in Bijapur district of Karnataka, which is 15 Kms from Koodala Sangama. It is not only the Dam but the gardens built surrounding it (3 gardens i.e. Krishna Garden, Lava Kusha Garden and the one at the entrance which I don't know the name !) make it attractive. 

At the first garden in Aalamatti Dam

We friends at the Japanese garden exhibit inside the first garden. Shot with the Auto shoot timer. 

The back waters of the Aalamatti Dam.

A tree with a platform around to hang out in shade at the back waters of Aalamatti Dam.

The back waters of the Aalamatti Dam

The Dam visible from far.

The Aalamatti Dam from the other side.

At the Krishna Garden

At the Krishna Garden

We could not visit the Lava Kusha garden due to time constraints. It was already afternoon and we had to reach Badami before evening before the place is closed for the day. We headed towards Badami with a short break for Lunch mid-way. Badami in Bagalkot district of Karnataka is 90 Kms away from Aalamatti Dam. We reached Badami at around 4:30 PM and had to search for a Hotel room to dump our bags and head to see the important monuments at Badami. At 5:30 PM we were near the museum with all the old monuments and stone sculptures of Badami, but we were denied access to it, as it was closing time.

A far glimpse of the structure inside the museum in Badami

We had to return back from the entrance to the museum at Badami.

Disappointed at this, we had the last option to hurry before 6:30 PM (closing time) for the famous Badami Caves. We headed towards Badami Caves. Badami was the capital of early Chalukyas in the 6th to 8th centuries when they built these temples here. The ruler's religious tolerance is shown by the 4 carved temples. The 1st one is of Shiva, 2nd and 3rd are dedicated to Vishnu and Buddha and the 4th one is dedicated to Jain Teerthankaras.

Badami caves at a glance, seen from the area near Museum.

The Cave Temple carved out from a monolithic rock.
This zoomed carved temple is the 4th, the last and the farthest from the entrance.

The 4th carved temple at the Badami Caves with the Monolithic Rock mountain.

The Caves at a glance with the Monolithic Rock mountain.

Here the 2nd carved temple is seen hidden behind the Rock and a wall at the left. The one in the right is not a temple but a natural void in the rock. It seems voids or hollow places like these were further carved into temples.

The Badami Caves from the entrance.

The Badami Caves from the entrance

The first among the Cave Temples. It is a Shiva Temple.

Inside the 1st Carved Shiva Temple.

Way to ascend further for other Cave temples.

Way to ascend further for other Cave temples.

Way to ascend further for other Cave temples.

Stone carved sculpture of Shiva at the 1st Carved temple of Badami Caves.

Stone carved sculptures at the 1st Carved temple of Badami Caves.

The 2nd single stone carved temple at the Badami Cave Temples.

The 2nd Single stone carved temple at the Badami Cave Temples

People descending down.

The Museum situated on the rock mountain seen at far and area between the Museum and Badami Caves - seen from the Caves.

Way towards 3rd and 4th Carved temples.

The sculpture of Vishnu at the 3rd Temple.

Another sculpture of Vishnu at the 3rd Temple.

The 3rd Carved Temple in Badami Caves.

Inside the 3rd Carved Temple.

The 3rd Carved Temple.

The 4th and the last Carved Temple.

Inside the 4th Carved Temple.

Inside the 4th Carved Temple.

It was early evening 6:30 to 7:00 PM when we left the caves back to our hotel room. We then planned to visit the nearby & famous Banashankari Temple just 5 Kms from Badami Town. It was dark enough for any photos ! We had the darshana of the Holy Goddess Banashankari and returned back to our rooms.

The next sunday morning we started from Badami to the famous Pattadakallu which is 22 Kms. We approximately started at 9 to 9:30 AM from Badami and reached Pattadakallu at around 10 to 10:30 AM by Bus. Pattadakallu was the capital of the Chalukya Dynasty in the 7th and 8th century when these temples were built. These were mainly experiments on the different architecture styles of building Hindu temples which includes both Dravidian (Southern) and the Nagara (Northern, Indo-Aryan) styles. Pattadakallu or Pattada Kisuvolal ('Red Town'), might be the place where the Chalukya Emperors had their Pattabandha (Corronation). UNESCO in 1987 included Pattadakallu in its list of World Heritage sites.

The Temple complex at the Pattadakallu.

The Jambulinga Temple, built in the middle of 7th century AD.

The Jambulinga Temple, built in the middle of 7th century AD.

The Galaganatha Temple, built around 750 AD or 8th Century AD.

The Galaganatha Temple, built around 750 AD or 8th Century AD.

The Sangameshwara Temple, (originally called as Vijayeshwara or Vijayeshwarada Mane in inscriptions) built around 720 AD, by the Chalukya Emperor Vijayaditya ( 696-733 AD).

The main structure at the left is Mallikarjuna Temple (originally called as Trailokeshwara Mahashilaa Prasada). It was built by the younger queen of Vikramaditya II, called as Trailokamahadevi around 740 AD. At the right is the small structure of Kashi Vishveshwara Temple, built around 8th century.

The Mallikarjuna Temple (originally called as Trailokeshwara), built around 740 AD.

The Nandi and the Nandimantapa (foreground) in front of the Mallikarjuna Temple (seen in the background).

The Sangameshwara Temple, from the side view.

The main structure of Mallikarjuna Temple.

The Kashi Vishveshwara Temple. 

The Sangameshwara Temple from the rear view.

The stone carvings depicting different stories of Ramayana, Mahabharata and different Puranas inside the Mallikarjuna Temple.

The stone carvings depicting different stories of Ramayana, Mahabharata and different Puranas inside the Mallikarjuna Temple.

The stone carvings depicting different stories of Ramayana, Mahabharata and different Puranas inside the Mallikarjuna Temple.

The stone carvings inside the Mallikarjuna Temple.

The inner view of the Mallikarjuna Temple.

The Virupaksha Temple (originally known as Lokeshwara Mahashilaa Prasada) at Pattadakallu is the most magnificent temple of the Chalukyan style. This was built in 720 AD, by the crowned queen, Lokamahadevi of Vikramaditya-II (733-745 AD), traditionally known to have been to commemorate his victory over the Pallavas of Kanchipuram. Vikramaditya-II impressed by the Kailasanatha Temple at Kanchipuram entrusted this work to famous architects "Anivaritachari Gunda" and "Sarvasiddi Achari". This temple resembles that of Kailasanatha Temple in Kanchipuram in plan and elevation. There is a separate Nandi Mantapa in front of the temple. This temple is a variable museum of the finest sculptural representations of early Chalukyan style.

The rear view of the Virupaksha Temple, biggest among other temples here and the only temple where Lord Shiva is still worshipped.

The rear view of Virupaksha Temple.

The Nandimantapa of the Virupaksha Temple facing the temple at the entrance.

The Nandi facing the Virupaksha Temple.

The Nandimantapa housing the Nandi, facing the main temple structure of the Virupaksha Temple at the left as seen.

The entrance of the main structure from the right side of the Virupaksha Temple.

The left partial side of the front view of the Viprupaksha Temple 

Entrance of the Virupaksha Temple from the front.

Side view of the Virupaksha Temple.

Stone carved illustrations of the famous Samudra Manthana by Suras and Asuras, inside the Virupaksha Temple.

Stone carved illustrations of the famous Samudra Manthana by Suras and Asuras. Shiva is seen consuming the dangerous poison Halahala and becoming Vishakantha / Neelakantha to protect all other living beings. Inside the Virupaksha Temple.

Stone carvings inside Virupaksha Temple.

Lord Shiva or Virupaksha represented by this Linga in the Garbha Griha of Virupaksha Temple.

Stone carvings inside Virupaksha Temple.

The Papanatha Temple (originally known as Mukteshwara Temple in the inscriptions) was a modest structure before and has undergone renovations at the time of the construction of Virupaksha Temple around 740 AD.

An outer view from inside the Papanatha Temple with the Nandi.

Stone carvings inside Papanatha Temple.

After going through all the temples and monuments at Pattadakallu, we then realized that the time was afternoon 1:30 to 2 PM. We were totally immersed by the art and beauty of the sculptures and temples. We decided to have lunch there and then go ahead with our plan further. But after lunch, for our dismay there were no travelling means to go to Aihole, which is nearly 10 Kms from Pattadakallu. Aihole is said to be a place where Chalukyas more elaborately experimented with temple architectures. And we were short of time to finish our trip by that evening, so that we could catch a bus to Bangalore back. So instead of waiting for a Bus for nearly an hour(as said by the locals) or waiting indefinitely for an auto, we decided to go back towards Badami and visit Mahakoota as our last place of visit. We reached Mahakoota at nearly 3 to 3:30 PM.

Mahakoota is 8 Kms from Pattadakallu towards Badami. Shri Kshetra Mahakoota is called as the Dakshina Kashi. It has 2 Ponds or Pushkarinis. One among them is a small one called as the Kashi Teertha situated outside the main temple structure with a Ganesh Idol besides. And the 2nd one is a big one called as the Shiva-Vishnu Pushkarini inside the surroundings of the temple. It is a tradition here that one takes bath first in the Kashi Teertha and then walks in their wet clothes inside, to the Shiva-Vishnu Pushkarini to take bath again there and then visit the deity Lord Shiva.

Children playing in the Kashi Teertha in Mahakoota.

Children playing in the Kashi Teertha in Mahakoota.

A man sitting on a side stone of a temple inside the Mahakoota Temple complex surrounding.

The Shiva-Vishnu Pushkarini at Mahakoota. The white colored Gopura (the monumental tower) at the top right belongs to the main temple of Mahakoota.  

People taking bath at the Shiva-Vishnu Pushkarini in Mahakoota.

Many people take bath and also enjoy at the Shiva-Vishnu Pushkarini in Mahakoota.

Observe the formation of the boys while taking bath and enjoying at the Shiva-Vishnu Pushkarini in Mahakoota ! 

It was nearly 5 to 5:30 PM and time for us to run back to our bus. We came back to Badami and checked out our hotel rooms and then headed for the bus stand. For our dismay again, there were no seats remaining for the only one direct bus from Badami to Bangalore. We had not booked any tickets before as our plans were not decided at the beginning and we didn't know from where would we start back our journey..! 

We then decided to go to Gadag and then go to Haveri and then Bangalore which was a bad idea. (Instead, we would have chosen to go to Hubli, which a bit longer in distance, and then would have got a direct Bangalore bus easier !). We suffered en-route by waiting for bus at Gadag and Haveri and finally reached Bangalore at around 8:30 to 9 AM on the Monday morning !